Portsmouth and Ferry

Leaving Spring Farm after topping of the diesel tanks we set out down to Portsmouth giving ourselves plenty of time for the ferry. We arrived in plenty of time and soon got chatting to the other keeno’s waiting for the ferry. Temperance (Truck) caused a few stares and started many a conversation where we found our first few spots of advice about the roads ahead, keeping to the toll road to miss out the worst of the mountain climbs and falls and other pearls.

After a short ish game of catch 3 security checks we moved onto the ferry, to find the pokiest cabin known to man, we eventually squeezed our way back out onto deck to find the bar. After a few beers the motion of the ocean took its toll and I opted for bed feeling rubbish. Steve and ash however decided to become the life and soul of the ferries entertainment meeting loads of new friend (some larger than others). Next morning Ash and Steve returned to the cabin. I was feeling worse with the continuing movement so opted for a stroll on deck. That was a top move. Then found a spot to crash on one of the decks and adopted the crash position for the following few hours. With the odd game of Time Crisis to kill time and a good book the day finally came to a wavy finish.

Ferry to Madrid

Well what a day 345k’s without Steve’s detours around Burgos slums but ruined by roadworks and our first flat tyre.

We left the ferry at 7:15 after making half a deck wait for our air to pump up, to be welcomed by a drizzly and overcast Spain. We joined the traffic heading south and were all very glad to be on dry land and not hung over. A quick detour and we were romping toward the mountains and into the heart of Spain and crickey if that’s not what I was here for, temperance was humming along and although she is not a fan of the hills we made great time a decided to head onto Madrid so that we could spend a day and mooch. As we came over the mountains Steve and Ash decided it was time to wrap up warms as there was snow on the peaks and it did get cold, I even closed my window. Plenty of on the move alterations were made with Ash hanging onto the roof as Steve played with the bracket that held the canvas onto the roof as it kept springing open.

We made it to Madrid for around 5 and Ste directed us straight into the centre of town, narrow roads steep hills and loads of heads turning. It was quite special. We then started the search for the hostel that Steve had found in lonely planet, (quick aside, the on a shoestring lonely planets are good for basics but a more comprehensive guide book would have gone a long way) this was on a crappy back road so as we didn’t fit. We found a theme park and got out to stretch our legs only to find out that the left side rear tyre was punctured. Bring on the antics. Steve and I started to jack up the truck and our first Spanish friend let us know there was a hostel not 300yrds from us so as the boys set to fixing the truck Ash went to sort out some sleeping arrangements. All Full. However not to be deterred we set out across central Madrid again to find somewhere to rest our now tired and aching bodies. As we pulled into a BP (with wild Bean) in broken Spanish Ash and I discovered the pearl that is the Solimpar Hotel 74euro a night for the three of us but it had a shower and beds, Done!

Madrid. 2/12/2007

After a bit of a lie in the team headed out to see, what there was to see, in Madrid. There was a lot to see. We went walking about to find some breakfasty lunch and stumbled on a quaint little eatery. Steve and Ash had the Paella and I went for a stew. We then walked of the dinner and found some lovely sights and touristy spots tried to go to a few museums but they all seemed closed. Went back to the hotel Solimpar did a little work on the truck oils etc and took an early night for a long hop to Seville the next morning.

Madrid to Seville 3/12/07

No major upsets just trucked 536k.

Some amazing scenery as we went up and down mountains heading south toward Seville. Stopping for fuel once after the dash on Saturday early on and again just before we stopped to keep the tanks topped up. Trying to run off of just the one tank as we have been told that fuel could be scarce as we hit Morocco. Stopped for lunch at the end of one mountain pass before heading down to let temperance cool down after the long pull and let my knuckles get some circulation back after the amazing but tough section of road.

Stumbling though Seville we saw a reasonable hotel with parking and the extra niceties such as towels that can become oil rags and a last chance for some laundry, but mainly it is a great place to leave the truck during the day as we head into Seville for some tourist opportunities. A ferry has been booked to depart from the Port of Tarifa at 1 o’clock on the 6^th of December so Africa here we come.

Sevilla 4/12/07

A great  day soaking  up the sites of Sevilla, an early rise and short cab ride took us to the cathedral and the palace and some walking around town. Steve and I got acosted by some gypsies and I got robed for about a tenner. Best trip was the  bull fighting tour unfortunatly there was no fights on but the stadium dripped with the smell adrenalin and a sence of forboding, a truly amazing place. Early to bed for the trip to the port town of Tenerifa tomorrow.

Tarifa 5/12/07

Wow what another beautiful place in Spain. After a 2ish hour drive we ca across a campsite on the way into Tarifa that we could not drive past so we pulled in and set about getting a pitch sorted and then the task of our first camp setting. The canvas we are using on the roof stinks and needs a good couple of days to allow the smell waft away but I’m sure after a night keeping our smells in it will feel the same. Had a small problem as when trying to pull the canvas tight it tore just a little but Steve assured us that after his time at pony club and CCF he knew how to use a needle and thread and set to fixing it up. In the mean time we were approached by a few other inhabitants of the site, some very friendly and useful and others German, but that’s what we are here for isn’t it. After a spot of lunch we headed to the beach for a swim… it was ace bit chilly to start but great once you were in. The scenery is amazing and we are only 15km’s from the African coast. The ferry is booked for 1 tomorrow and we are all getting a little tense and excited.

The Ferry to Morocco 6/12/07

Only 90kms on the road but a few more by sea and our first foot on African Soil. What an amazing day, from the fraught ports to the bustle of the Moroccan street markets, to the peace and serenity of the night’s camp site.

An early start after a very cold night’s camp that we were told went to near freezing but we all braved the top of the truck for the christening sleep. The new sleeping bags suggested to us by Mark were tip top and kept all but faces nice and toasty. We started to pack up for the trip to the ferry but in no hurry we meandered about talking to other campers and getting some more pearls of wisdom. Last night we met an elderly Dutch guy named Gerard who was a retired Civil engineer who had taken a year after he had retired to become a certified story teller and he kept Steve and I amused for an hour as we all chatted about the wonder of language. After a few more procrastinations in the morning and a quick maintenance check we headed down to the meandering port town of Tarifa. A total wall citadel that was traffic free is another place I think that I will have to return to on my Spanish travels in the future as we had very little time to hang around. As we pulled up to the ferry we got out and produced out tickets and rushed to catch the earlier ferry, in our haste I managed to drive through a passport control point (which was very badly sign posted in my defence) and the officer chased us all the way round onto the boat which temperance had to back onto. The ride was rough but there was a nice air conditioned room to sit and feel rubbish in as Steve and Ash sorted my passport guff out for me.

As we came of the ferry we were greeted with a completely different ethos, the laidback mellow atmosphere of Spain had been transformed into what I can only describe as a cattle yard of people trying to get off the boat, people trying help you round the system all in exchange or a few dirham, one "fixer" came up to us and he asked what we wanted to do and where we wanted to go, he then quickly started running through the traffic shouting at people to get out of the way and blindly waving us to follow. He got us to park alongside the sea wall out of the way of the hustle of the main crowed and led me and my passport and truck documents of to meet a friend of his (some kind of official) and started to explain the game I now found myself playing. I will look after you in the port I will get you the right papers and the right official, and then when we come back to the car, you can look after me. This I thought was fair. He was good to his word and the papers were filled and we were put in the right path and we both turned to go back to the truck. We came round the back of a trailer just in time to see a large wave coming up and over the sea wall straight over the truck and an unsuspecting Steve and Ash found the sea coming in their open window. I looked toward the fixer and said "thank you, you even managed to clean my truck and shower my friends." After this we parted ways a few dollars to the lighter and headed into the sprawling mass of Moroccan border control, it took probably 3 hours from leaving the ferry to getting out into Tangier, and with being sent into the police to get checked and re-check I thought that it was going to be an expensive day going to and from Spain, but eventually all the papers were in order and we were off down the road. Some stunning scenery as Steve led us down the coast road and off the big motorways. Steve took over the driving to get his first feel of Temperance on the road and soon started to get to grips with the complexities of gear changes. Ash at this point decided to get in the back for a sleep as she was a little unnerved by the change of driver, as to be fair we did hit some bad hills.

We stopped in the night at a free campsite on the outskirts of Larache, which is a town which looks like it is a town in great economic incline with houses and hotels being built everywhere, most half finished and look as though they have been that way for a while. We parked up and started the usual rituals, with a few people asking lots of question and generally showing interest in the truck, we decided it was time for a stroll and went of in search of some tyre patches and some tea. Well the patches we found first and the seller asked for 60 dirhams and this was a bit steep at nearly £6, so we walked on. After a few more minuets we turned left into a side street where people were selling all manner of things, from CDs and car stereos to spices, fruit and vegetables. We started to purchase a few bits and pieces for dinner and general supplies, a kilo of potatoes and fresh for 60p, a kilo of bananas for 70p and a kilo of the best oranges for about 60p. A few more steps and we came across a little store and bought a ½ kilo of rice for 50p and a pot of jam for a pound. A butcher on the side of the street sold us a kilo of beefy lamb for 5-6 pounds, it was ace. Really this was amazing bartering and chatting in Frenchy Spanish, with the smells and sights of morocco, ok we had a few strange looks and Ash felt a little unsure of where she fitted in the grand scheme of things because of the cultural divide, but the looks were probably because of the 6’3" 18 stone giant, we are a little bigger than the Moroccans, and I’m sure ash will find her place soon.

Dinner was cooked to perfection once we had tweaked all the leaks out of the gas lines, quick washing up sesh and more attention from the other inhabitants of the campsite. My new mate Les showed me his Leyland DAF and the caravan he had fitted onto the chassis.

Larache to Fes 7/12/07

Early rise and a "hot" shower more like tepid at best, and once again we hit the road, headed toward Fes the capital of Moroccan hand craft the home of world famous hand ceramics, Berber rugs and assortments of other trinkets made in the old ways.

After a relatively short drive we headed inland over the foot hills of the Atlas Mountains and some of the most spectacular scenery that I have ever seen. It was an amazing drive with Tempy (taking things a little more laid back) cruising at around 55-60k, or so the speedo said, and having to rein her in as we went down the far side of the hills. All along the roads people were selling fresh fruit vegetables and olive oil grown locally. For me it was some of the best driving so far, even though the roads have started to deteriorate, they are still tarmac and still wide enough for two lorries so the going was good even at the reduced pace and we came into Fes at around 2 o’clock which was excellent time really.

On our way into Fes a crazy man on a bike who later introduced himself as David came alongside us and asked (as we were moving) if we were looking for a campsite, he then in a very Moroccan way, i.e. no regard for traffic laws showed us to the Camping International Fes. Once there and set up David found us a guide for the Meradina or centre of the old town, as it was quiet our guide said that although you won’t get the real feel of the bustle you will also not get so many people trying to hustle you for your money. Although this in theory was good, we were the last people in every store and the selling was hard, we went to see where they make the famous Fes pottery ceramics factory, all hand made and painted, interesting fact they use the pulp left over from the olive oil pressing to light the kilns which when burnt correctly can reach heats of 1200^{oc. Train to make the Moroccan pottery takes a 4 year apprenticeship, and to cut the tiles into forms for mosaics is 4-5 years and to become a mosaic master (to actually build the mosaics) is a further 4 years. The work that they were under taking was very hugely skilled and incredible to see. We then went down into the medina, a maze of little streets covered on each side with shop after shop, we were invited into a carpet quad an old house beautifully decorated with mosaics and carpets of every size and design the hospitality was great them showing us a there full stock of carpets and giving us mint tea the Moroccan mans scotch. A real hustle and bustle of place being led from one shop to another, the tannery and a place where we all bought an authentic jillab (native Moroccan coat). Tomorrow I am looking forward to a quiet day, some shopping (food) and some truck tinkering and a little sorting out my life.}

Fes 8/12/07

After yesterdays muggings off that occurred in the medina I decided that I would like to stay in the camp site out of harms way, so Steve and Ash went for a wonder and to do a bit of food shopping. Mainly today I mooched recharged batteries and did some reading. I had a good look at some maps and had a bit of a read of lonely planet. I think I’ll let Steve worry about this stuff. Maybe head west from Laauoune into Mauritania. Once Steve and Ash returned Ste fitted the knife rack and I had a look at the fuel pipes that I had been meaning to change since we left. This done we had a superb tea laid on by Ash and sat playing cards and reading until sleep o’clock.

The Road to Marrakech 9/12/07.

320kish from Fes to Kasba-Tadla. Along the inland route, stopped twice by the police and our first bribe paid of 100 Dirham.

We hit the road at around 8.30 after Steve nearly got shafted for an extra nights camping. After this was sorted out we made good progress toward Marrakech. We went looking for the inland road through Ifran, Azrou and south to Kasba-Talda. However as we came into Ifrane at the top of the hill I got distracted by the royal palace and we all missed the sign post we wanted, along came the best detour ever. The Atlas Mountains dominated the skyline as we came up over the first big ridge and we were treated to some spectacular views. This is when things went for a giggle. We stopped at on of the high points, pulled out the new tripod and started taking some timed shots with the camera, then Ste decided to stay up top for the journey doing his cameraman bit. Ash and I had the map and decided to ignore the shouts from above and headed more inland for a longer detour heading toward Midelt but turned of before we got there, there were some amazing communities up in the hills with all sorts of shops on the high streets as we went through, I daren’t stop and ask about how much I could have got a tagine for as this would have just left a more bitter taste in my mouth from Fes. We headed down some pretty steep face but the truck held up well, smoothly working her way down. At the bottom of one of the long declines our first police stop of the day, we exchanged pleasantries and then he pointed out that sitting on the roof was probably not the safest place but when he saw the excitement about his country and all we wanted to do was take pictures he just waved us on with a smile and blessings for a safe trip. However a few hours later Tempy got her first speeding ticket and the police were not as happy or as smiley. The first copper asked for my driving licence and for me to follow him. He showed me the radar gun and I had a bit of a giggle, I didn’t think it could go that fast, we exchanged smiles and he passed me onto his French speaking friend to communicate that I now owed him 400dirham for the privilege of his company. I obviously look a little less than receptive of this amount and he halved his offer, I halved it again and gave him 100dh grabbed my docs and hit the road again. Trying to find a campsite we pulled into a petrol station and the owner then pointed to a corner of the forecourt and said help yourself, with showers and toilets and most of all it was my favourite price, we parked up. Steve cooked his first meal of the trip, Beef, potatoes onions and peppers all fried up with a bit of marmite for flavour. Perfect. The only job left for the day was to sift through the 350 photos taken and delet the worst of them.

Road to Marrakech 10/12/07

Day 2 to Marrakech went smoothly, after breaking camp from our new best mates the pump attendants, grabbed a coffee from the forecourt and hit the road. Steve took over the driving duties once we cleared the major town of BENI MALI. Ash and I spent the morning tidying the cabin and reading books as Steve meandered his way quietly toward our destination. A few rare moments along the way but no major dramas, as we came to the 10k marker Steve opted out and the natural order was restored, Steve navigating and me guiding Tempy through the busy streets of Marrakech, then stopped at a supermarket for a few bits and a quick taste of the Devil, Maccy D’s, it was good. After all day trying to find a leaflet of the campsite we were looking for when we returned was pinned to our wind screen. As we headed out of town a van carrying the livery of the campsite was stopped next to the road, a few moments later and a bit of gesticulating we were being escorted to the site. A wonderful little complex called Le Relais de Marrakech it has a pool that was really quite cold but once you were in it took the heat of the day away and after the first shower in more than 3 days I was feeling quite human again.

One thing has to be said, these Moroccans, ok they cant drive for toffee but the sun during the day is hot as hell and the sun tan is really on the go. Sandals and shorts tomorrow me thinks for a mooch around town.

Marrakech Medina 11/12/07

After a late start we booked a taxi to town, a French couple were also looking for a ride in so we said we would share a six seater that the campsite was offering, this six seater turned out to be a Moroccan 6 seater, a banged up merc 320, and the driver started to usher us in. Steve called shotgun and he won big. Ash and I along with the not little French man and his wife tied our best to fit in the back, a little intimate but not as uncomfortable as you might think. The sun was blazing and I was glad to have on my shorts and Jesus sandals even though most Moroccans were wearing there winter warmers. We started to wander aimlessly around Marrakech and I think the hustlers could smell our uncertainty and pounced from the shadows, little kids trying to show us the way to this palace or that palace. I offered him 10 Dh for his trouble and he started to go on about his friends that were stalking us the whole way, we said a pleasant thank you and continued walking. After a small walk we found ourselves near the souks (tight streets usually undercover lined with market stalls). We skirted round these for a while until another helpful guide took us on and lead us to the tannery where he worked, on the way we saw a Bedouin wood craftsmen who challenged us to open his magic box ash nearly succeeded but only as she nearly trashed the thing. The tannery was as nice as a pigeon poo covered, dead animal everywhere place could be and the keeper offered us bushes of mint leaves as gas masks. After the usual Moroccan hospitality of mint tea and a hard sell we tried to hit the road and the keeper asked for our entry fee, I politely told him he should of made us aware of this before we entered gave him some spare change in my pocket and left with a kind goodbye. We then hit the souks in a big way after skilfully skirting around them all day we walked straight into the middle of the heaving mass of consumer goods and salesmen, never before Morocco have I felt so hustled and weary of going into a shop but still the experience was worth it all the same.

After the hustle and bustle we were glad of some clean air as we broke back into the main square and we headed to our prearranged taxi pick up. Back in the campsite we hit the pool and looked at the menu for that evening, some real Moroccan food went down a storm as we saw what we maybe able to produce out of our tagine. A bit of homework planning and we have a bit of an idea where we are of to next.